A Modified Frequency Distribution Function of Wave-Breaking-Induced Energy Dissipation. Academic Article uri icon


  • A nonlinear frequency-domain model and a probabilistic wave breaking model have been employed together to simulate the propagation of nearshore wave breaking and to provide estimates of related statistical quantities such as skewness and asymmetry. This combination of models requires a pre-specification of the frequency dependence of dissipation. Prior work has suggested that a frequency-squared weighting for the dissipation term is most appropriate via physical arguments. However, the original frequency distribution function significantly underpredicts the higher-order moments, particularly the accuracy of asymmetry predictions is in need of further improvement. An intensity of frequency dependence for the breaking-induced damping coefficient is introduced here to further adjust the dissipation function in order to increase the accuracy of asymmetry predictions. By correcting the frequency dependence function with a new form of frequency dependence in the breaking coefficient, the model results are in better agreement with the measurements of the spectrum and higher-order statistics, as well as with the free surface elevation measurements. It is also seen from testing the model with three different cases that the more evident the influence of the breaking mechanism is on the wave transformation process, the more pronounced the contribution of this modification is.

published proceedings

  • J Geophys Res Oceans

author list (cited authors)

  • Kim, I., & Kaihatu, J. M.

complete list of authors

  • Kim, In-Chul||Kaihatu, James M