Evolution of high frequency waves in shoaling and breaking wave spectra Academic Article uri icon


  • 2019 Author(s). Mathematical derivation and numerical verification of a wave transformation model in the frequency domain are discussed. The model is a fully dispersive nonlinear wave model and is derived based on the boundary value problem. Transforming the problem in the frequency domain and using multiple scale analysis in space and perturbation theory, the model is expanded up to second order in wave steepness. This fully dispersive nonlinear wave model is a set of evolution equations which explicitly contains quadratic near-resonant interactions. The comparison between the presented model, the existing fully dispersive model, and a nearshore model with different sets of laboratory and field data shows that the presented model provides significant improvements particularly at higher frequency.

published proceedings


author list (cited authors)

  • Ardani, S., & Kaihatu, J. M.

citation count

  • 3

complete list of authors

  • Ardani, Samira||Kaihatu, James M

publication date

  • January 2019