Shoaling and breaking of random wave trains. Spectral approaches Conference Paper uri icon

abstract

  • We describe recent efforts to develop a model to predict the evolution of the spectra of random ocean waves shoaling and breaking on a natural beach. A model based on the full Euler equations truncated to second order in wave steepness is described, and its relation to previously developed models based on the Boussinesq approximation is outlined. Several simple models for breaking wave energy decay are described.

author list (cited authors)

  • Kirby, J. T., Kaihatu, J. M., & Mase, H.

publication date

  • January 1992