Equilibrium beach profiles with random seas
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Three quantitative equilibrium beach profiles models are presented for random wave fields. Two models follow the work of Larson where improvements to the spilling breaker assumption are made with spectral estimations of wave breaking. The third model is established by imposing a no-net sediment transport condition on Bailard's (1982) cross-shore sediment transport formulation. Modeling the flow field as in Roelvink and Stive (1989), an equilibrium solution is achieved which includes a longshore bar.
author list (cited authors)
Creed, C. G., Dalrymple, R. A., Kriebel, D. L., & Kaihatu, J. M.