Shoaling of periodic waves over barred-beaches in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank Academic Article uri icon


  • A numerical wave tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory is used to calculate changes in local properties of periodic waves shoaling over barred-beaches (wave height, celerity, front-to-back asymmetry). Results show that strongly nonlinear wave decomposition phenomena occur in a modulation region beyond the bars. These are analyzed in detail and discussed in the paper.

author list (cited authors)

  • Grilli, S. T., & Horrillo, J.

complete list of authors

  • Grilli, ST||Horrillo, J

publication date

  • December 1999