Evolution of Gravel Beach Profiles Academic Article uri icon


  • An experiment was conducted in a wave flume to examine the processes of gravel beach profile evolution under irregular waves. Two erosion tests were performed on a steep slope of 1/2 with two different significant wave heights. An accretion test was conducted on a mild slope of 1/5 until its profile became quasi-equilibrium. Another test was initiated with a gravel bar constructed at the toe of the equilibrium profile. The bar migrated onshore and resulted in the seaward shift of the equilibrium profile. Quasi-equilibrium profiles observed after 18 or 36 bursts of 400-s wave action were similar but affected by the differences in the wave height and initial profile. A numerical model developed for damage progression of stone armor layers is shown to predict the profile changes of the two erosion tests. The bed load formula used in the model is adjusted to better predict the onshore bar migration and the accretional change on the mild slope. More extensive comparisons of the numerical model with data will be required before it can be applied to gravel and cobble beaches. 2011 American Society of Civil Engineers.

published proceedings


author list (cited authors)

  • Kobayashi, N., Hicks, B. S., & Figlus, J.

citation count

  • 2

complete list of authors

  • Kobayashi, Nobuhisa||Hicks, Betsy S||Figlus, Jens

publication date

  • September 2011