Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth Academic Article

abstract

• The formulation of a nonlinear frequency domain parabolic mild-slope model is detailed. The resulting model describes two-dimensional wave transformation and nonlinear coupling between frequency components. Linear dispersion and transformation characteristics are dictated by fully-dispersive linear theory, an improvement over weakly-dispersive Boussinesq theory. Both the present model and a weakly-dispersive nonlinear frequency domain model are compared to laboratory data for both two-dimensional wave transformation and pure shoaling. It is found that, in general, data-model comparisons are enhanced by the present model, particularly in instances where the wave condition is outside the shallow water range. © 1995 American Institute of Physics.

authors

• Kaihatu, James

author list (cited authors)

• Kaihatu, J. M., & Kirby, J. T.

citation count

• 78

publication date

• August 1995

publisher

• AIP Publishing  Publisher

published in

• Physics of Fluids  Journal

Digital Object Identifier (DOI)

• 10.1063/1.868504

start page

• 1903

end page

• 1914

volume

• 7

issue

• 8