Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth
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The formulation of a nonlinear frequency domain parabolic mild-slope model is detailed. The resulting model describes two-dimensional wave transformation and nonlinear coupling between frequency components. Linear dispersion and transformation characteristics are dictated by fully-dispersive linear theory, an improvement over weakly-dispersive Boussinesq theory. Both the present model and a weakly-dispersive nonlinear frequency domain model are compared to laboratory data for both two-dimensional wave transformation and pure shoaling. It is found that, in general, data-model comparisons are enhanced by the present model, particularly in instances where the wave condition is outside the shallow water range. © 1995 American Institute of Physics.
author list (cited authors)
Kaihatu, J. M., & Kirby, J. T.