Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth Academic Article uri icon


  • The formulation of a nonlinear frequency domain parabolic mild-slope model is detailed. The resulting model describes two-dimensional wave transformation and nonlinear coupling between frequency components. Linear dispersion and transformation characteristics are dictated by fully-dispersive linear theory, an improvement over weakly-dispersive Boussinesq theory. Both the present model and a weakly-dispersive nonlinear frequency domain model are compared to laboratory data for both two-dimensional wave transformation and pure shoaling. It is found that, in general, data-model comparisons are enhanced by the present model, particularly in instances where the wave condition is outside the shallow water range. 1995 American Institute of Physics.

published proceedings

  • Physics of Fluids

author list (cited authors)

  • Kaihatu, J. M., & Kirby, J. T.

citation count

  • 82

complete list of authors

  • Kaihatu, James M||Kirby, James T

publication date

  • August 1995