QUANTIFICATION OF THE WIND EFFECT ON WAVE BREAKING BASED ON A BOUSSINESQ WAVE MODEL
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© 2003 World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd. Recent advances in Boussinesq modeling of nearshore hydrodynamics have offered a platform for the study of wind effects on wave transformation and breaking-generated nearshore circulation. The objective of this study is to quantify the wind influence on coastal waves. The paper documents 1) the parameterization of the momentum flux transferred from the wind to surface gravity waves in the coastal zone, 2) the implementation of the parameterized wind stress into a Boussinesq wave model, 3) the development of empirical breaking criteria with the wind effect, and 4) the test of the extended Boussinesq model against observations. The methodology for the parameterization of the airsea momentum flux as well as the extended Boussinesq model incorporating the wind effect can be used as a tool to study wind effects on nearshore wave propagation and horizontal circulation.
author list (cited authors)
Chen, Q., Kaihatu, J. M., Hwang, P. A., & Douglass, S. L.