Wave elevation prediction based on pressure measurements
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A deterministic method for predicting wave elevation based on pressure measurements at a fixed point is developed. The method uses both conventional and phase modulation methods for modeling wave-wave interactions in an irregular wave train and is called hybrid wave model (HWM). The predicted wave elevation using the HWM based on the pressure measurement of a steep transient wave train is in excellent agreement with the corresponding elevation measurement, while that using linear wave theory has relatively large discrepancies. The application of the HWM to the analysis of the measurements of ocean storm waves may have important implications to ocean and coastal structure design.